All the leftovers from spring/summer are used up so it was time to buy some real fabric for the Autumn/Winter 2017 wardrobe. But what to buy? What should I make?
Enter Oska – my inspiration for this year. They are a German clothing company with real shops and online and I have fallen head over heels in love with their designs and styling. This is who I want to be this year…….
Oska design on the basis of silhouette types:
A-silhouette – feminine, figure-flattering, subtly elegant
Box-silhouette – casual, comfortable and urban
H-Silhouette – reduced, purist and variable
O-silhouette – expressive, authentic and individual
V-silhouette – casual, relaxed and variable
Clear simple shapes and choice materials stand for an unostentatious but unique look. It is a style, which does not disguise but brings out the personality and is at the same time casual and elegant.
I delved into the pattern stash and lo and behold, I already own a number of patterns that are suitable and others that will work, with a little tweaking.
I ordered a lot of fabric from Fabworks (they really are delightful people to deal with)
Mostly wools, tweeds, a bit of cotton jersey and some cotton shirting. And I think I’ll have to be buying more…..
The style aesthetic can be summed up as: loose, layered, cropped wide trousers, unstructured coats and jackets, simple white shirts and plain tops, coordinated.
We can call it art-teacher chic or restricted Lagenlook; but I want to make this style my own. Have I found it? My Style I mean. The elusive holy grail of the middle aged woman and the sewer…..
Time to get started and find out.
corecouture 
September 17, 2017 at 8:45 am
While on holiday in Cornwall last year I came across their shop in St Ives completely by chance. I had heard the name, but never seen the clothes in person. They are beautiful! Sadly not in my price range and if I am honest not really flattering to my shape. Will read in interest at what you create.
September 17, 2017 at 7:13 pm
I’m off to London next weekend Sheree and plan to visit a real life Oska shop just to see. They are not in my price range either but so looking forward to seeing the real thing. Thank you.
September 17, 2017 at 11:33 am
I’ve looked at Oskar clothes lots of times in department store. Very Artistic – but they seem suited for tall, wide women… Will be interested to see your versions.
September 17, 2017 at 11:51 am
Interested to see your versions – as you don’t seem to be a tall,
wide woman – is what I meant!
September 17, 2017 at 11:55 am
And you’re not a tall, wide woman – is what I meant.
September 17, 2017 at 7:12 pm
It’s OK Dee. I know what you mean. I’m interested in my own versions too, so that’s two of us. Thank you
September 17, 2017 at 11:40 am
I look forward to see your journey. have you looked at cutting line designs patterns? or sewing workshop patterns? some are Oksa inspired designs.
September 17, 2017 at 7:14 pm
Thanks Andib – off to look at alternative patterns now. Thank you.
September 17, 2017 at 11:47 am
I like the look of the line drawings in V9035, I hope you start with this one . Your plan looks like it will mix and match well, be forgiving to wear, and work with your figure. I like this look, but fear being swamped in cloth as I’m not tall .
September 17, 2017 at 7:17 pm
I do have my reservations Jay.. I know that I look best with waist definition but let’s see. Sure, it’ll be an exciting journey
September 17, 2017 at 12:27 pm
Wow, such interesting shapes and a lovely palette in the Oska range. Your patterns look like great starting points. I’m interested to see where this takes you.
September 17, 2017 at 7:19 pm
Actually Diane, so am I! – LOL! The colours are lovely though and inspiration on their own. Thank you.
September 17, 2017 at 12:57 pm
I love Oska, too! But have never invested. I also love Eileen Fisher, such beautiful fabrics and styling, pricey but way more affordable than Oska. Even more affordable is JJill, in the same general style direction, very nice but certainly not the fabric quality. I think most of your pattern selections are either Marcy or Katherine Tilton (LOVE THEM). I know for sure that Linda Lee at Sewing Workshop draws inspiration from Oska. So check Sewing Workshop out. Same for Cutting Lines Designs. I don’t think any of these are only for tall and wide people. I am short and trim. The magic trick is scale and proportion which is easy to say and tricky to implement.
September 17, 2017 at 7:21 pm
Absolutely on the mark there Charlotte – Tilton to the core with one Brenne, which makes me think that as these are already in my stash that I was aiming for this look all along. The implementation of ‘the look’ will hopefully develop over then next few weeks. Thanks so much.
September 17, 2017 at 1:44 pm
I like looking at these garments but wouldn’t want to wear them. When I wear a loose fitting bottom eg calf length culottes I like a slim fitting top or vice versa. But being tall you can probably wear this kind of silhouette. I will be very interested in your experiments as you could probably get a very nice capsule wardrobe out of the patterns you gave. And great looking fabrics.
The thing I am most attracted to it the subtle and beautiful muted tones. I live the yellow blue and reds that they have paired with grey.
September 17, 2017 at 7:23 pm
And that’s my concern too Kate – I like looking at them but will I suit them or wear them? Time and effort will tell… thank you.
September 17, 2017 at 1:51 pm
Louise Cutting of Cuttinglinedesigns.com bases many of her patterns from Oska. You might check out her patterns and fabrics. I am so looking forward to seeing the “new you”. You found some lovely fabric I see.
September 17, 2017 at 7:25 pm
Thanks Linda, I am frequently on your blog following your progress and makes in a similar styling. You are one of my inspiration idols.
September 17, 2017 at 1:56 pm
Yes, these Oskas do sort of rhyme with Eileen Fisher and Marcy Tilton, don’t they? A bit of Japanese aesthetic influence. I look forward to seeing your experiments!
Here’s my hunch: one, the quality of the fabric and finishes would be extra important to the results. Two, it might be easier to pull off voluminous silhouettes if one avoids head-to-toe bulk. Meaning, it would be easier to work an origami tunic with pencil skirt or leggings than with a pair of long plus-fours. Or would that undo the Oska Effect? I don’t know. You’ll show us.
P.S. Forget the midi length tulip skirt; they were called hobble skirts for good reason 100 years ago.
September 17, 2017 at 7:27 pm
Nice idea Sankati – loose top with fitted bottoms or vice versa – like it. Oska is hopefully just my starting point and I aim to make this my own. Thank you for your opinions and comment – always considerate and thoughtful.
September 17, 2017 at 3:43 pm
Good luck, sounds so exciting and revolutionary!!
September 17, 2017 at 7:28 pm
Thanks Kathy – I’m beginning to think I might need all the luck there is out there.
September 17, 2017 at 3:43 pm
I am soooo in awe. OK, jealous! and I love the look you’re embracing, so looking forward to seeing your pieces. Enjoy!!
September 17, 2017 at 7:30 pm
And you?? I’m thinking you should move house: 1 – out of hurricane routes and 2 – somewhere you can experience seasons – lots more opportunities for sewing stuff!
Thanks Coco and thankfully you survived and are well.
September 17, 2017 at 5:04 pm
I love September and autumn sewing. All those gorgeous fabrics. Oska is definitely one of my faves but I prefer to sew and get colours that suit me. You will have a great deal of fun and you always come up with beautiful garments. I can hardly wait to see what you create.
September 17, 2017 at 7:32 pm
I love autumn too Barbara. I can get my precious boots back on my feet and don;t need to shave my legs – LOL!. I’m planning and planning and just hoping that all that planning might result in some wearable clothes.
Thank you.
September 17, 2017 at 5:17 pm
Yeah, this will be brilliant on you, it’s all about the height isn’t it? I can go for some art teacher looks, but they give off a very different vibe worn with my mock-docs to when I wear them with heels… looking forward to seeing your take on this. And I can definitely recommend that Zandra Rhodes jacket I just finished, it would work nicely with these looks, as it has a defined fit on shoulders and torso, with flare beneath. Go for it!
September 17, 2017 at 7:37 pm
You think? I just want to intimidate the newbies and though some unexpected outfits might do the trick..
Are you giving me permission to buy new shoes too??
September 17, 2017 at 8:03 pm
Hell yes woman, like you need permission! Flounce and flaunt. I wore my elephant dress to scare my new students this week…they were stunned into immobility. Result.
September 17, 2017 at 5:36 pm
I love the Oska look, too. Would love to actually see the clothes in person. I look forward to seeing your interpretations. I’m making a hack of Oska O silhouette pants. First draft isn’t voluminous and enough O shaped for the look. Have to add to the outseam curve and increase the inseam knee darts. Haven’t figured out what I’ll wear on top but surely there is something in my wardrobe that works. I need to be careful with the volume of lagenlook. Being average height and rather rectangular in build, too much volume on top makes overwhelms me.
September 17, 2017 at 7:39 pm
I’m going to check them out Su in London next weekend where I am doing some training to see the quality and fabrics for myself. I reckon a lot of existing patterns can be ‘adapted’ for this look. Thank you very much.
September 17, 2017 at 5:42 pm
Yes! Just the images I needed for solidifying my vision for a relaxed, layered, and sophisticated – sort of, wardrobe. A couple of patterns I have used recently as I am stumbling along trying to create a similar wardrobe. V9140 pants – LOVE them in lightweight terry knit; M7445, a Melissa Watson pant – the pockets are perfect as is the leg width; Tessuti :Megan Longline cardigan – greatducter style.
Thanks for the inspiration!
September 17, 2017 at 7:42 pm
Thanks Chris – not as voluminous as Lagen look but along the same design lines. Thank you for your pattern preferences.
September 17, 2017 at 5:45 pm
I loved this walk-through your wardrobe planning process! I’ve been evolving – pinterest has really helped me in this I must say. I love their clothes too – they remind me of Elizabeth Suzann’s designs which pepper my Curated Closet file on pinterest 🙂
September 17, 2017 at 7:44 pm
Thank you Kathleen, I’m off to look at your Pin board and I believe that this is part part of my evolution too.
September 17, 2017 at 11:53 pm
The Oska fabrics are swoon-worthy. I have to get me to an Oska’s soon. I am having withdrawal symptoms. Oh you’ll have so much fun in the London store.
September 18, 2017 at 3:39 am
I saw Louise Cutting from Cutting Lines Designs do a breakout session on proportion a couple of years ago. She shared a pile of good information that I can’t remember. But, these thoughts have stuck with me:
1. Wear either big over small or small over large. Large over large is bad.
2. Almost all of us should wear shoulder pads. She wasn’t talking about the 1980’s monster pads. But… and these are my words, not hers… but just enough to enhance your height and keep you from rounding into a ball.
3. Three quarter length sleeves are always flattering.
I would think about The Sewing Workshop’s Hudson Top and Pants. I’m addicted to both. The pants have just a bit of lantern shape at the bottom. The top is just fabulous… though I ended up taking a total of 8″ out of the circumference.
September 18, 2017 at 7:11 am
I have been an admirer ( although not a buyer) of the Oska look for many years. I love the subtleties in the cut and the detail which manages to be restrained AND dramatic at the same time. However unless you have a very broad shoulder frame, I think that the comment from Charlotte , above, about adding shoulder pads ( the tiniest possible ) is great advice.
September 18, 2017 at 7:48 am
Those look wonderful: stylish but comfortable to wear. Your sort of colour palette too.
September 18, 2017 at 12:32 pm
Have you made the 8499 pants before? If so, did they work out for you? I’ve decided they’re a pattern drafted in hell. I honestly don’t think they could fit anybody. The skirt still looks interesting to me though. I’m frustrated myself with the oversize top look. I’m not happy with my makes because I just look swamped in them. It may be just a problem with being shorter.
October 2, 2017 at 1:19 pm
Have you looked at the Oska clothes in London department store yet?
October 2, 2017 at 1:22 pm
That was me, Dee… Must have lost my identity…
October 4, 2017 at 9:45 pm
Oh I’m curious to see where this takes you, Ruth! Don’t think I’ve ever seen an outfit you’ve made that didn’t look amazing… A friend wears Oska (RTW) and she looks fabulous in them. She is taller than me, though, i think it’s too much for my short, barrel stature. Mine need to be a bit flowy about the middle, but not overwhelming. Love seeing where us “more mature” ladies take our wardrobe building.
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October 9, 2017 at 2:25 am
I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I always say why buy, when you can make it yourself!
I also would like to invite you to my Designin’ December Challenge. Sewists have been sewing throughout the year – copying Designer Originals and RTW, making their own Designer Copies. In December I share all the Designer Copies and we vote on a winner – someone who succeeded in making their Designer Copy.
If you would like to see what it’s all about check out my December 2016 posts.
Looks like what you are planning falls right into this Challenge. Just mention Designin’ December in your posts or #DESIGNINDECEMBER on Instagram so I can find you and I’ll include you in my Designin’ December posts.
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