corecouture

Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

A/W 2017

53 Comments

All the leftovers from spring/summer are used up so it was time to buy some real fabric for the Autumn/Winter 2017 wardrobe. But what to buy? What should I make?

Enter Oska – my inspiration for this year. They are a German clothing company with real shops and online and I have fallen head over heels in love with their designs and styling. This is who I want to be this year…….

Slide1

Oska design on the basis of silhouette types:

A-silhouette – feminine, figure-flattering, subtly elegant
Box-silhouette – casual, comfortable and urban
H-Silhouette – reduced, purist and variable
O-silhouette – expressive, authentic and individual
V-silhouette – casual, relaxed and variable

Slide1

Clear simple shapes and choice materials stand for an unostentatious but unique look. It is a style, which does not disguise but brings out the personality and is at the same time casual and elegant.

I delved into the pattern stash and lo and behold, I already own a number of patterns that are suitable and others that will work, with a little tweaking.

Slide1Slide2

I ordered a lot of fabric from Fabworks (they really are delightful people to deal with)

IMG_20170826_124549_326

Mostly wools, tweeds, a bit of cotton jersey and some cotton shirting. And I think I’ll have to be buying more…..

Slide2

The style aesthetic can be summed up as:  loose, layered, cropped wide trousers, unstructured coats and jackets, simple white shirts and plain tops, coordinated.

We can call it art-teacher chic or restricted Lagenlook; but I want to make this style my own. Have I found it? My Style I mean. The elusive holy grail of the middle aged woman and the sewer…..

Time to get started and find out.

53 thoughts on “A/W 2017

  1. While on holiday in Cornwall last year I came across their shop in St Ives completely by chance. I had heard the name, but never seen the clothes in person. They are beautiful! Sadly not in my price range and if I am honest not really flattering to my shape. Will read in interest at what you create.

    • I’m off to London next weekend Sheree and plan to visit a real life Oska shop just to see. They are not in my price range either but so looking forward to seeing the real thing. Thank you.

  2. I’ve looked at Oskar clothes lots of times in department store. Very Artistic – but they seem suited for tall, wide women… Will be interested to see your versions.

  3. I look forward to see your journey. have you looked at cutting line designs patterns? or sewing workshop patterns? some are Oksa inspired designs.

  4. I like the look of the line drawings in V9035, I hope you start with this one . Your plan looks like it will mix and match well, be forgiving to wear, and work with your figure. I like this look, but fear being swamped in cloth as I’m not tall .

  5. Wow, such interesting shapes and a lovely palette in the Oska range. Your patterns look like great starting points. I’m interested to see where this takes you.

  6. I love Oska, too! But have never invested. I also love Eileen Fisher, such beautiful fabrics and styling, pricey but way more affordable than Oska. Even more affordable is JJill, in the same general style direction, very nice but certainly not the fabric quality. I think most of your pattern selections are either Marcy or Katherine Tilton (LOVE THEM). I know for sure that Linda Lee at Sewing Workshop draws inspiration from Oska. So check Sewing Workshop out. Same for Cutting Lines Designs. I don’t think any of these are only for tall and wide people. I am short and trim. The magic trick is scale and proportion which is easy to say and tricky to implement.

    • Absolutely on the mark there Charlotte – Tilton to the core with one Brenne, which makes me think that as these are already in my stash that I was aiming for this look all along. The implementation of ‘the look’ will hopefully develop over then next few weeks. Thanks so much.

  7. I like looking at these garments but wouldn’t want to wear them. When I wear a loose fitting bottom eg calf length culottes I like a slim fitting top or vice versa. But being tall you can probably wear this kind of silhouette. I will be very interested in your experiments as you could probably get a very nice capsule wardrobe out of the patterns you gave. And great looking fabrics.

    The thing I am most attracted to it the subtle and beautiful muted tones. I live the yellow blue and reds that they have paired with grey.

  8. Louise Cutting of Cuttinglinedesigns.com bases many of her patterns from Oska. You might check out her patterns and fabrics. I am so looking forward to seeing the “new you”. You found some lovely fabric I see.

  9. Yes, these Oskas do sort of rhyme with Eileen Fisher and Marcy Tilton, don’t they? A bit of Japanese aesthetic influence. I look forward to seeing your experiments!

    Here’s my hunch: one, the quality of the fabric and finishes would be extra important to the results. Two, it might be easier to pull off voluminous silhouettes if one avoids head-to-toe bulk. Meaning, it would be easier to work an origami tunic with pencil skirt or leggings than with a pair of long plus-fours. Or would that undo the Oska Effect? I don’t know. You’ll show us.

    P.S. Forget the midi length tulip skirt; they were called hobble skirts for good reason 100 years ago.

    • Nice idea Sankati – loose top with fitted bottoms or vice versa – like it. Oska is hopefully just my starting point and I aim to make this my own. Thank you for your opinions and comment – always considerate and thoughtful.

  10. Good luck, sounds so exciting and revolutionary!!

  11. I am soooo in awe. OK, jealous! and I love the look you’re embracing, so looking forward to seeing your pieces. Enjoy!!

    • And you?? I’m thinking you should move house: 1 – out of hurricane routes and 2 – somewhere you can experience seasons – lots more opportunities for sewing stuff!
      Thanks Coco and thankfully you survived and are well.

  12. I love September and autumn sewing. All those gorgeous fabrics. Oska is definitely one of my faves but I prefer to sew and get colours that suit me. You will have a great deal of fun and you always come up with beautiful garments. I can hardly wait to see what you create.

    • I love autumn too Barbara. I can get my precious boots back on my feet and don;t need to shave my legs – LOL!. I’m planning and planning and just hoping that all that planning might result in some wearable clothes.
      Thank you.

  13. Yeah, this will be brilliant on you, it’s all about the height isn’t it? I can go for some art teacher looks, but they give off a very different vibe worn with my mock-docs to when I wear them with heels… looking forward to seeing your take on this. And I can definitely recommend that Zandra Rhodes jacket I just finished, it would work nicely with these looks, as it has a defined fit on shoulders and torso, with flare beneath. Go for it!

  14. I love the Oska look, too. Would love to actually see the clothes in person. I look forward to seeing your interpretations. I’m making a hack of Oska O silhouette pants. First draft isn’t voluminous and enough O shaped for the look. Have to add to the outseam curve and increase the inseam knee darts. Haven’t figured out what I’ll wear on top but surely there is something in my wardrobe that works. I need to be careful with the volume of lagenlook. Being average height and rather rectangular in build, too much volume on top makes overwhelms me.

    • I’m going to check them out Su in London next weekend where I am doing some training to see the quality and fabrics for myself. I reckon a lot of existing patterns can be ‘adapted’ for this look. Thank you very much.

  15. Yes! Just the images I needed for solidifying my vision for a relaxed, layered, and sophisticated – sort of, wardrobe. A couple of patterns I have used recently as I am stumbling along trying to create a similar wardrobe. V9140 pants – LOVE them in lightweight terry knit; M7445, a Melissa Watson pant – the pockets are perfect as is the leg width; Tessuti :Megan Longline cardigan – greatducter style.

    Thanks for the inspiration!

  16. I loved this walk-through your wardrobe planning process! I’ve been evolving – pinterest has really helped me in this I must say. I love their clothes too – they remind me of Elizabeth Suzann’s designs which pepper my Curated Closet file on pinterest 🙂

  17. The Oska fabrics are swoon-worthy. I have to get me to an Oska’s soon. I am having withdrawal symptoms. Oh you’ll have so much fun in the London store.

  18. I saw Louise Cutting from Cutting Lines Designs do a breakout session on proportion a couple of years ago. She shared a pile of good information that I can’t remember. But, these thoughts have stuck with me:
    1. Wear either big over small or small over large. Large over large is bad.
    2. Almost all of us should wear shoulder pads. She wasn’t talking about the 1980’s monster pads. But… and these are my words, not hers… but just enough to enhance your height and keep you from rounding into a ball.
    3. Three quarter length sleeves are always flattering.

    I would think about The Sewing Workshop’s Hudson Top and Pants. I’m addicted to both. The pants have just a bit of lantern shape at the bottom. The top is just fabulous… though I ended up taking a total of 8″ out of the circumference.

    • I have been an admirer ( although not a buyer) of the Oska look for many years. I love the subtleties in the cut and the detail which manages to be restrained AND dramatic at the same time. However unless you have a very broad shoulder frame, I think that the comment from Charlotte , above, about adding shoulder pads ( the tiniest possible ) is great advice.

  19. Those look wonderful: stylish but comfortable to wear. Your sort of colour palette too.

  20. Have you made the 8499 pants before? If so, did they work out for you? I’ve decided they’re a pattern drafted in hell. I honestly don’t think they could fit anybody. The skirt still looks interesting to me though. I’m frustrated myself with the oversize top look. I’m not happy with my makes because I just look swamped in them. It may be just a problem with being shorter.

  21. Have you looked at the Oska clothes in London department store yet?

  22. That was me, Dee… Must have lost my identity…

  23. Oh I’m curious to see where this takes you, Ruth! Don’t think I’ve ever seen an outfit you’ve made that didn’t look amazing… A friend wears Oska (RTW) and she looks fabulous in them. She is taller than me, though, i think it’s too much for my short, barrel stature. Mine need to be a bit flowy about the middle, but not overwhelming. Love seeing where us “more mature” ladies take our wardrobe building.

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  25. I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I always say why buy, when you can make it yourself!
    I also would like to invite you to my Designin’ December Challenge. Sewists have been sewing throughout the year – copying Designer Originals and RTW, making their own Designer Copies. In December I share all the Designer Copies and we vote on a winner – someone who succeeded in making their Designer Copy.
    If you would like to see what it’s all about check out my December 2016 posts.
    Looks like what you are planning falls right into this Challenge. Just mention Designin’ December in your posts or #DESIGNINDECEMBER on Instagram so I can find you and I’ll include you in my Designin’ December posts.

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