Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

Rainy Day Welts


I have returned full time sewing time to concentrating on my SWAP ’13 and I’m currently tackling the bridging garment – a raincoat/trench. This will keep both Audrey and Katherine protected in inclement weather, but perhaps by the time I have it finished summer will be here.

The fabric is a reversible showerproof and fleece. No, that doesn’t quite describe it correctly. On one side is a showerproof taupe twill and on the other side a black jersey. The description on the internet said gold and navy but the navy is so dark that to my eyes, it’s black. Regardless, the fabric has been cut to Butterick B4865 (OOP)  and lengthened by 20″. I bought this pattern for $1 in the OOP sale around Christmas time. I went for style D with turned back cuffs, revers, no official closures and a belt. All style have raglan sleeves which should make it loads easier inserting the sleeves and easier to finish a straight seam rather than a circular one.
I’m thinking that an unlined jacket will be quick and fairly simple to knock out – in fact Butterick actually wrote the words FAST & EASY on the envelop – well it might be, but a reversible jacket is a whole different ball game. All the seams must be neat and tidy and finished; the collar is proving to be dilemma as I’ll seem to have a raw edge somewhere; and how do you hem and finish the raw edges? I can’t use interfacing or facing to turn the lapels. There’s a lot of thinking to be done on this project yet.
In the meantime, before I tackle all the problems, I made the pockets. Here is a brief tutorial on making welts and covering up the untidy reverse with a patch pocket – same hole, two entries.

I made a tie belt while I ponder the finishing techniques. I don’t have an overlocker (serger) and although the fabric doesn’t fray an unfinished edge is just a bit too casual for this look. Any ideas?

30 thoughts on “Rainy Day Welts

  1. Dear Ruth,your do a very very gread SWAP. I like the conception just as the execution. An the tutorials are very helfful. Wonderful.Have a nice Sunday.Mema

  2. Cool pockets…a great idea!

  3. I'm printing this out to help me along- of course it's hard to sew a straight line on the gaudiness I will choose, but…..

  4. I love your pockets and the information shared was most helpful. Great job on them

  5. Thank you for showing this. Very useful information.

  6. Awesome, well photo'd tutorial! Thanks for your efforts.

  7. Great double pocket pics. I've just made a double sided coat from fleece and cheated by doing double patch pockets – more of a casual style than yours. I used overlapped seams as I had no fray issues, and finished the edges by binding with one of these fancy "braid" ribbons that matched both colours in the coat. I did one set of button hole and 2 sets toggles, but TBH, ribbon frogs would have looked better and worked easier but I had run out of ribbon đŸ™‚

  8. Thank you Mema, You're very kind.

  9. Has this sparked an idea?

  10. Don't need to sew in a straight line with patterns – I can't sew in a straight line anyway.

  11. Thanks Linda, let's hope the finished coat measures up.

  12. I hope it makes sense. Thanks Diana

  13. Thank you Bunny, I had to check they were all in the right order, otherwise chaos could ensue.

  14. Thanks Sarah. I'd thought of double patch pockets but my sewing precision is not good and I know I would have missed at least one of the pocket seams. I'm thinking of using a braid/ribbon too to finish the edges. Thanks again.

  15. Ruth, gorgeous workmanship on the pockets. How about bias binding on all raw salvages? Do you have enough fabric to make any bias strips? Using the "tube" method yields the most bias from the least amount of fabric. That's one idea. Or flat felled seams? You do such beautiful work, any finish you choose will surely look terrific.

  16. Hi Ruth. You can attach your collar in two pieces, at the neckline of your front and inside garment before they go together. When you sew the two garment pieces together, sew around the collar, not the neckline. After you have the garment right sides out, you can stitch in the ditch along the neckline/collar seam to bring the collar together. I made this sound very simple, but I think you'll get the idea! Hope this helps with your pondering!

  17. Making the garment reversible needs more work and considerations indeed. The idea of adding pockets is interesting! I never thought of that. Good job!

  18. This looks very good: can't wait to see the finished article. Thanks for the thorough tutorial!

  19. Lovely tutorial–very helpful and thorough. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished garment. But I had to laugh when I read the title to your post–my first thought was "wow, how hard does it have to be raining to leave welts on you?"

  20. Great tutorial, thanks! I love the idea of a reversible coat, but I've never felt proficient enough to try. From what I can see of your raincoat, it is turning out fantastic. As for finishing the edges, I second Coco Savages suggestion of flat felled seams. I seem to remember there are a couple of options for flat fell seams depending if you want two lines of thread to appear on both sides or just on one of the sides. With this and choosing different color threads for the bobbin and upper thread you could either make the seam unnoticeable or make it a contrasting feature.

  21. Ruth, I have been contemplating a way to integrate an iPhone pocket into a jacket, but I was stalled because I couldn't decide whether to put it on the inside or the outside. I am so glad you posted this! Your sewing is beautiful.

  22. Oh Coco, stitching in the ditch is my scaryist thing of all. I can't sew in a straight line! But thanks for the advice – it's something I have to practise.

  23. Flat felled seams on the inside – a necessity in this case. I'm verging towards the bias strip as a finishing….thanks a lot, very helpful.

  24. Indeed. I thought reversible would be easy, alas no.

  25. Thanks Marianna. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished article too – LOL.

  26. I live in Ireland don't forget – we don't get much snow in winter just harder rain!

  27. See Lucia? All those decisions have to be made – it's a headache.

  28. Gosh thank you very much Debra – I will treat this as praise indeed.

  29. Brilliant way to handle the double fabric, thank you so much for sharing a great tutorial. Can't wait to see the final coat.

  30. Pingback: I Can Kantha 2 | corecouture

Let's talk.....

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s