corecouture

Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

Linton Pink – Complete 1

45 Comments

This is a bittersweet moment. I have really enjoyed the slow sewing and the self-imposed tailoring construction processes of Paco’s Vogue 1527. This coat has given me joy, a little heartache too along the way but I am unashamedly declaring, it is a thing of beauty. I am just a little bit sad that it is finished.

On the other hand, a finished garment is always an achievement. Luckily, I have a tonne more Linton tweeds to sew through and if they all go as well as this one I shall be one very happy sewer. Jinx!

I left you the last time showing the insides and as a work in progress because that’s where the lion’s share of the work is and I also wanted at least someone else to see and acknowledge it. Which you did – thank you!

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Since then, the hand made shoulder pads and sleeve heads have been inserted and the remaining lining slip stitched/fell stitched and otherwise hand sewn to complete the body. The sleeve underlining is wrinkling because the coat is inside out and bunching up.

DO NOT follow the pattern instructions at this point: insert the sleeves, THEN insert the shoulder pads (Step 27). DO NOT sew shoulder pads in when your coat is inside out. They will not fit when you turn everything right way round. Just tackle the fabric from the right side and get on with it.

The shoulder pads were made with six layers of thin cotton wadding – the same type as used in quilts. Each layer is gradually smaller than the top-most semi-circle, which is covered with a patch of canvas. The whole lot was then pad stitched to form the curve to fit the shoulder. The sleeve head is the same cotton wadding; rolled and hand sewn to the inside of the sleeve seam allowances.

DO NOT trim the arm hole seam allowances – you need these for shoulder pad and sleeve head positioning. DO NOT press this seam; gently steam from the outside only. Yes, it looks really messy on the inside but only you will ever see this but everyone else will only see the outside – choose your battles.

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I do love to see a hand stitched sleeve lining with all its genuine wrinkles and slightly uneven gathers – it definitely demonstrates a passion for honest hand sewing and provides true flexibility in the sleeve/arm-hole that is wholly lacking in RTW.

Buttonholes and vintage buttons have been sewn on the sleeve vents and centre front. And I have yet another gripe about the instructions.

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So…… you take the time to cut and construct a sleeve vent – doing your very best to make the two symmetrical, make a buttonhole and sew on a button and then the instructions (Step 42) tell you to sew the sleeve lining over the whole lot so that the vent won’t open. There may be times in the wearing of this coat that I want the button open and to fold back the cuffs – by this stage I just ignored the instructions and went with what felt right and what would work for me.

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If you buy an original Paco Peralta pattern, it is always beautifully drafted but it comes without instructions.

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They are expensive, I’ll grant you that but they are all hand drawn, not printed, and of course designer. No instructions provides a certain amount of freedom and opportunity for individual ingenuity but may not be suitable for the faint hearted or inexperienced sewer, nor those who like a step by step construction process.

To compensate, there are loads of online tutorials and reviews to support you along the way. Personally, I relish the jigsaw puzzle aspect of sewing a pattern without pre-set instructions and often find a new method of construction during the process.

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This coat is part 1 of a set of three;  I find it is remarkable on its own and I just want to wear it with jeans, frocks and even jammies – I love it that much! It is a mighty weight on its own, what with all the underlining and canvas and what have you but the tailoring makes the coat fit like a glove: it literally drops over my shoulders and remains in place, perfectly draping my irregular frame and making me stand taller.

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I make no apologies for my personal pleasure in just looking at the set in sleeves. This was a slow sewing process and it certainly paid off – exact tailor tacking, basting, fitting and then, only then, sewing. Added to which there was a considerable amount of pressing. When you press wool to tame it into shape, and I mean press not ironing,  leave it to cool and dry in shape. That means you might have to walk away from the ironing board for a wee while. Get a cup of tea and surf the net for inspiration for your next sewing project…..

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I read books to help me along the way……..

And watched Craftsy classes…….

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Front and back – can you tell which one is which?

Here’s the coat, admirably modelled by Doris – front, back, left and right. Sometimes I hate that mannequin, my clothes always look better on her than me!

There are faults in my coat which I’ll document at a later date, for now, I just want to smile every time I see it and turn a blind eye to the picky problems.

The skirt is cut and ready for sewing. It’s going to be made with the coordinating herringbone that is on the coat collar. Stay tuned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

45 thoughts on “Linton Pink – Complete 1

  1. I can smell the warm wool from here!!! Nothing looks or feels so good as perfectly set in sleeves and hand stitched linings!!! Your plaid matching is superb and love the beefy shoulder pads too. Attaching them after the sleeves are in give you a chance to really place them well. The deal with the lining covering up the sleeve vent must be something that differs from men’s clothes but I see this in RTW and the buttons are sewn right through all the layers with the lining so nothing can be opened. Take a bow, Ruth, you deserve it!

    • I constantly bow to you Mrs Mole.. your skill and patience.
      Hubbie always keeps me right about the ‘right’ way to tailor jackets and the ‘acceptable’ way is that the sleeve vents must open, so I follow his advice.
      Thanks so much.

  2. That sleeve is indeed a thing of beauty!

  3. Bowing down, sprinkling rose petals in your path and murmuring gasps of amazement! Wondrous, a thing of beauty indeed.

  4. Beautiful design and workmanship! You will enjoy this piece as a wardrobe staple for many years.

  5. Beautiful fabric. Beautiful sewing. What joy!

  6. Wowwwwwww…this is just beautiful! I am also one of those sewing geeks who notices shoulders all the time, and swoons over them when they’re done well.

    • Isn’t it so annoying when you see RTW that has cut corners?
      Matching checks/stripes/plaids is just one of my personal obsessions.
      Thank you Tia. I hope you are still sewing and creating and all is well.

  7. Wonderful! A work of art – and craft. Wear it and enjoy. So glad you are still blogging your creations.
    I may get out my sewing machine again… Dee

  8. PS. Am thinking of making a hat…

  9. So beautiful! I remember pressing the seams a a wool skirt. It seemed to meld together and then after cooling was the best seam I had ever seen. It made me wish I had more seams to press. This was a lot of work and time but certainly paid off for you. 100% better than RTW.😍

  10. Bought the pattern! What a source of inspiration you are, thank you. And to see work in progress, thoroughness and the effort made is soothing in a fast lived world. Slow fashion really, though compared to my pace you are a rocket. And it looks really wonderful. I am looking forward to the skirt.

    • Thank you so much Viliene.
      The real trick of home sewing is that you can take as much time as you want/need.
      I must admit that this was a reflective sewing experience because it required figuring out and that I added tailoring techniques that weren’t in the instructions.
      We look forward to your version of the pattern.

  11. Absolutely stunning. It’s a classic and you created it so well !! Bravo !!

  12. It is perfect in every way. Rejoice in a job well done.

  13. I am so glad you have continued to blog–from my interest level your posts just keep getting better and better! And considering that this pattern is on my “to do” list I have especially enjoyed these–as well as have added Linton tweeds to a travel agenda. Beautiful work and practical tips–great job!

    • Hi Nancy – start saving your pennies now if you intend to visit Linton Tweeds – it is too hard to resist.
      Yes, still blogging; I missed it myself for a while and it is a record of what I’ve made, how I look and perhaps, more importantly styles to avoid!
      A photograph shows so much more than a glance in the mirror. More’s the pity…….

  14. Take a bow, no take many bows! This lovely coat is indeed quite an achievement. I hope you have a grand occasion coming up where you can walk tall, confident in utter elegance.

    • No occasion Elle -unfortunately but I’ll wear this as everyday during the A/W months.
      I reciprocate the bow to you and your wedding/occasion outfits…..

      Can’t you convince your company that you have to come to UK/Ireland for some sort of wine/beer tasting thingy??
      You are the truly the one person I must meet in person…..

  15. Your coat is truly lovely. I am getting shivers of glee just looking at it, especially the shoulders and sleeves. It is going to be a joy to wear.

  16. It is a work of art! So beautiful.

  17. Beautiful!!!

  18. A coat of skill and beauty. Those shoulders and sleeves – oh my.

    • I need them Anthea – too many years of carrying shoulder bags on my left shoulder….
      I need to redress the balance with tailoring now and not yoga…….
      Thank you very much

  19. This is absolutely stunning! Stunning! Your plaid match is superb!

  20. Well done! And it looks pretty darned perfect to me.

  21. It is absolutely gorgeous, can’t wait to see the entire ensemble and you wearing it. Such exquisite sewing and workmanship, you put my efforts to shame. Thank you for sharing your progress so far.

  22. Simply stunning, love it Ruth.!

  23. I’m not a tweed person, and the end result is a little like camouflage to my eyes. Done right, I can’t see anything.

    The insides, however, always fill me with happiness and a level of pleasure that ordinary life does not provide. This week stank, I’m not listening to the news, and I am just going to look at the insides of your coat and sigh. Possibly steam a little wool for the whole sensory experience.
    Can I live there?
    Thank you so much for this. I love how you have dwelt on the construction and the details. Your blog has taken me to a wonderful place.
    Bless you. And I’m not the blessing kind.

  24. I’ve loved watching this come together, and reveled in your enjoyment of all the tailoring involved. Is there anything more satisfying than a beautifully set sleeve? Yours are perfection. I think we all look forward to seeing the completed ensemble.

  25. Oh my goodness, this is absolutely gorgeous!! I absolutely get what you’re saying about the sleeve heads. It’s definately worth taking time with them, especially when they turn out as well as yours. Happy wearing!!

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