Take someone else’s pattern and someone else’s fabric and you can sew a suit, not just an ordinary skirt and jacket suit but a designer version and what’s better than a “designer” suit? Vogue 1467. And even better than that is they all once belonged to my friend, ReAnn.
I’m not entirely sure of the benefits of writing about OOP patterns: I suppose if you really like it you could search the Interweb for a copy. However, I have a few insights and thoughts about this suit, hardly unsurprising. I suppose this pattern would fall into the category of an evening or special occasion suit with the long skirt with thigh high split.
Nowadays we tend to think of hi-lo hems as being trendy, modern and current – yeah- think again, this one comes from Lauren Sara (1994) and has a hi-lo hem that knocks the modern renditions out of the water. The front of the jacket and blouse sit just shy of the waist while the back falls all the way to top thighs. I am reminded a little of gentlemen’s tailcoats.
Some gorgeous chocolate brown stretch gabardine and a co-ordinating silk chiffon were kindly provided by my bestest ever sewing mate ReAnn which produced a composite of skirt, jacket and blouse.
The jacket is unlined, so every seam had to be finished neatly. I completed some version or other of Hong Kong seams using satin bias binding but used some leftover silk as the hem finish. I quite like the contrast of the plain and sober outside with the bright and patterned hem. And it does bear a passing resemblance to the silk chiffon blouse.
And I did the same treatment on the skirt hem because after all, this is a suit and the bits should match each other… I made a little off-centre split and made use of the selvedge edges.
ReAnn didn’t buy enough of the gabardine for me to make the trousers nor the skirt true to the pattern, so I modified the design to what I had. The skirt became knee length instead of floor and was patched along the hemline to make it mid length eventually. The most obvious ‘design’ feature of this designer pattern is that the stupid sewer used the wrong side of the gabardine for the main body of the skirt and then reversed the fabric to use the right side for the hemline patch!
To summarise, the jacket and skirt hem are from one side of the fabric and the skirt is the other. Damn fabrics that look the same on both sides until you sew them together….
However, there’s no crying in sewing (Coco) so I have a day suit not an evening one and my lifestyle definitely favours the day. If anyone wants to invite me to a black tie event then I shall make an evening version.
The jacket has wide flared sleeves which feel decadent and luxurious. I am having a bit of trouble inserting decent sleeves at the moment in my sewing repertoire. Either too confident or lost the knack, I don’t know but I’ll have to go back to basics for the next time. The gabardine had a bit of stretch so in this case, I’m blaming the materials and not the skills LOL.
The skirt is high waisted but not so high as to be a corset, the blouse should cut just along the top. I’d like to wear the blouse with other things so I lengthened it quite considerably at the front and when worn untucked, I like the break it provides in the head to knee solid brown.
Can’t waste silk chiffon. A scarf was made from the left overs.
I found the blouse to be very loose (big) and because it’s chiffon, I will always have to wear a cami underneath. But you can see clearly the dramatic hemline. The blouse should mirror the jacket, sleeves and hem. The blouse neckline is a simple scoop while the jacket has a smart mandarin collar.
You can clearly see the change in tone of the skirt’s fabric in the following photos. Remember that ‘design feature’?
A new term has started with all the fresh faced students all eager and keen. My job is trying to keep that enthusiasm going until next June. I’m taking advantage of some lovely sunshine to take these pics, although the temperature does not match it. This suit is finished just in time for autumnal weather and intimidation in the classroom.
Thank you one and all who provided ideas on what to sew with the Linton tweeds in my previous post. You’ve given me a lot to think about and research – you’re the best!
In fact, you gave me so much to think about that I just had to go back to Linton and buy another colour way, just in case I had too many ideas and not enough fabric. That makes a pink, a green and now a blue, all with coordinating herringbones.
……So lots to plan and think about and cut and sew and hopefully, eventually, wear.
September 23, 2018 at 11:50 am
Fabulous- totally fabulous. The accidental design feature looks brilliant, and I will probably steal it at some point. I wish I didn’t have such a big belly, unfortunately that style would simply frame it, but it looks amazing on you. Love it.
September 28, 2018 at 4:06 pm
Thanks very much Elaine.
I’m so envious of your recent productivity – successful or not – always learning to be done……..
September 28, 2018 at 4:57 pm
I’m loving that taking a bit more care in my planning is really paying off in a versatile coherent look. The first time in my life lol
September 23, 2018 at 1:07 pm
Everything 90s is ‘new’ again, it seems! So funny how fashions go in circles, and each generation thinks they’re doing something no one has done before! I remember that pattern, and loving it, but never purchased it because it was such a dramatic design, and I wouldn’t have had any place to wear it. I love yours. And in chocolate brown, too!! And your personalised design feature is perfect.
September 28, 2018 at 4:08 pm
And there is that thing about not doing it twice though Tia…
Nevertheless, I’m teaching students this year whose birth date is 2000 and onwards, so they probably haven’t seen anything like this.
September 23, 2018 at 2:08 pm
I adore the suit. I adore the pattern! Sophisticated!
September 28, 2018 at 4:10 pm
The extra benefit is too Peggy, is that I feel really good in it too. That must be a good thing.
September 23, 2018 at 2:44 pm
I agree the suit and blouse are sophisticated, classy and unique all at once. You’ll have so many people asking you where you bought this suit and it looks like you could have bought a small car with the money rather than the outfit! Stunning!
September 28, 2018 at 4:11 pm
Well Kathleen, ReAnn bought the fabric first, so I couldn’t possibly comment on the cost – LOL!
It is somewhat unique while still being wearable. Thank you
September 23, 2018 at 4:20 pm
You did well from the “ReAnn Boutique”. A wonderful outcome that looks great on you. Inspiring.
September 28, 2018 at 4:12 pm
And Barbara, there’s more to come… I must visit her more often.
Thank you very much
September 23, 2018 at 4:37 pm
Love this Ruth! It’s perfect in that fabric and I too like the ‘design feature’
September 28, 2018 at 4:12 pm
Design features are what set us home sewers apart from everyone else Diane.
September 23, 2018 at 4:50 pm
Like always you made a gorgeous outfit. I love the “mistake” which doesn’t look like one at all. I love the look, but like Demented Fairy, I am totally unable to wear this style, until that is protruding bellies come into style, which seems unlikely somehow. Oh well.
September 28, 2018 at 4:13 pm
Thanks Elle. Intentional mistakes are a frequent occurrence in my sewing….
September 23, 2018 at 5:15 pm
very chic and interesting to look at. I love the old vogue patterns.
September 28, 2018 at 4:14 pm
It is a very interesting pattern Beth. And like you, I do love a vintage Vogue.
September 24, 2018 at 3:17 am
Your new suit looks smashing on you. I like the design feature. I think it makes the seam look intentional, a sort of minimal color blocking. It gives the suit a modern feel.
September 28, 2018 at 4:16 pm
Now there’s an idea… thank you Dawn. I’ve never been one for dramatic colour blocking but discrete blocking I am definitely interested in. You’ve given me new ideas to work with.
September 24, 2018 at 7:47 am
Ooh lovely. I agree, using the wrong side of the fabric for the skirt body works well.
I like hearing about any pattern, out of print or not. There’s nothing new in sewing so the techniques are always relevant to something.
September 28, 2018 at 4:17 pm
I’m hoping to do some WIP posts soon Catherine because personally I’m always interested in other people’s processes, so someone might be interested in mine.
September 28, 2018 at 4:18 pm
BTW, you’d look fab in this one….
September 24, 2018 at 8:18 am
Oh wow, i absolutely love that suit! And you wear it so well. I think the reversed fabric on the skirt is actually an improvement over the original as it provides subtle variation on an otherwise monochrome column. Wow, i really cant get over how stylish you look. The suit looks so modern without being trendy. You always surprise me, well done!
September 28, 2018 at 4:20 pm
Thanks Amalitar. I just love finding ‘new’ patterns, even if they are old.
September 24, 2018 at 2:20 pm
Wow such a stylish ensemble, you always produce such incredible outfits. Please do keep ’em coming
September 28, 2018 at 4:23 pm
Thank you Christine.
You do know, however, that I actually make this stuff to wear in real life and not just for this blog?
What I’d like to do is show that even ‘fancy’ patterns can be worn by real people who have real lives, and believe me – I have a real life.
September 24, 2018 at 3:49 pm
Just gorgeous! And I like that “design feature”. To me it looks like you really planned it as one, so well done.
September 28, 2018 at 4:24 pm
Oh yeah, Ellie, it was always planned…….LOL
September 24, 2018 at 7:01 pm
Oh my goodness, your suit is amazing!! I love it!
September 28, 2018 at 4:25 pm
Might just make it again in a different fabric Lynne. I love the skirt, it fits so well and the jacket is just this side of ‘weird’ without being unusual. Wait until next sewing day to see,……..
September 25, 2018 at 12:32 pm
Wow, just stunning! I absolutely love this on you. Very inspiring.
September 28, 2018 at 4:26 pm
Hopefully, you’ll take this inspiration and do your own.
September 27, 2018 at 2:45 pm
Absolutely love you sewing and your blog. This outfit is stunning, but most of all I love the historical references, the little details you include in your finishing and dialogue about the process ups and downs. I just retired from the classroom and look forward to more time sewing.
September 28, 2018 at 4:30 pm
I squeeze my sewing time in between coming home in late afternoon and before I have start marking or prep in the early evenings. The weekends are mine though! Good for you, you can choose your own sewing time – make very good use of it…..
October 1, 2018 at 5:59 am
This is fabulous! Lovely fabric choices and style. Beautiful!
October 30, 2018 at 12:13 am
How cool! I actually made the jacket and the skirt in 1995, in red nicky velours. I remember loving the sleeves, dramatic but not overly so. The velvet was not a great choice though, too thick and it didn’t drape well. Your fabric works much better for it!