When Vogue lost the licence to produce DKNY patterns, my little sewing world became yet another wee bit smaller. However, I did take advantage of a $4.99 sale earlier in the year and bought them all up – I’m only sorry I didn’t buy more designs when I had the chance…..
To be honest, I only bought this dress pattern because it was the last one and I never really intended to sew it up, rather to keep it as a collector’s item. A very good friend was having a birthday night out recently and I thought I should show my admiration for her by making an effort and dressing up – I was thinking of something a little unusual, special, dressy but not dressed up, if you know what I mean?
I reached for the sacrosanct V1489 (OOP), bought 4m of lapis blue cotton jersey from Fabworks and got mentally and physically prepared for gargantuan pattern pieces the size of Montana and three thousand tailor tacks (I’ve made DKNY before!). The sewing table was cleared of all debris and extraneous items; nine hundred needles were threaded ready for those crucial tacks, one deep breath, bit of yoga and meditation and I’m ready to go.
Most pattern pieces in this pattern are cut on a single layer of fabric because it’s an asymmetrical dress and left and right are different – this makes cutting out only slightly easier. There are still three thousand tailor tacks to sew (well, in reality, about 12) but every one of them is important – so don’t scrimp. Best advice I can give is, if you have a mannequin, use it now: cut out, mark and pin on your own Doris so that you know what piece goes where and, more importantly, what side it should be on.
Cutting out and marking up all safely negotiated, the sewing is relatively simple. I do own an overlocker and it would be easy to construct the main body of the dress on such a machine, but the pattern instructions assume that the sewer does not have one and directs you to sew a double seam. I did this and still achieved a lovely, flat finished inside seam. Just remember to trim carefully after sewing the second row of stitching.
The pattern includes a slip that the shell dress should be sewn to: this helps with the drape and fit and additionally provides an extra safety layer below a rather low front and back neck neckline and a high front split.
Usually I cut a 14 in Vogue but with DKNY I’ve learned to cut a 12 due to use of stretch fabric and the pleats/drapes/gathers that add yet more ease. For the actual finished dress, my plan worked, except for the under slip! I should have cut a 14 for the slip because it is very, very fitted.
Please excuse my blotchy legs – I have deliciously sweet blood that Donegal midges just could not resist. It’s not just my legs – my arms, feet, scalp, face, neck, back and any other easily accessible skin was subjected to intensive feeding in the last two days. I’m applying anti-itching/anaesthetic lotion.
This is one really and truly fitted slip – mine’s that tight that it’s acting like a corset and I was somewhat concerned about undressing after a night out with the girls! The original photo from the catwalk shows the dress to be rather loose with no sight of the slip but I rather like my dress slightly more fitted.
I splashed a wee bit of extra cash on some silk crepe de chine for the slip (also from Fabworks). In my defence, it was a perfect colour match for the cotton jersey shell fabric and it’s luxurious against the body. It has managed to hold the dart stitches despite of my best efforts to tear them apart with indulgent dinners and perhaps one or three cocktails. However, I didn’t sew the dress to the slip as it was just too tight to comfortably pull on. So I have a separate slip with a wrap dress on top. It works for me.
Sewing notes and minor alterations:
Lengthened slip by 4″, merely for modesty’s sake and decorum.
Did not add a snap fastener to the front side closure as per instructions as I didn’t think this would hold fast against the onslaught of my current diet and stomach. I adapted this to a long loop with a toggle-style button that will provide extra ease and flexibility around the mid-front while providing a stylish, yet secure closure.
I also raised this closure to waist level. The original pattern is for the closure to be about 5″ lower – somewhere around hip height (one of those tailor tacks, if it hasn’t fallen out by this stage). The offset closure creates the asymmetrical hemline (as seen in the photos) but I was totally prepared to forego this look in place of a dress that stayed closed.
Ultimately, I totally adore this dress. The fitted slip keeps me feeling secure, while the draped, crossover neckline at front and back and the front split can drape and gape as much as they want without any personal embarrassment to me whatsoever.
Because I work hard and am (usually) really nice to other people I treated myself to a matching DKNY handbag (in the sales, of course) …..
Other completed versions of this dress that you might like to see are:
Pomona with a beautiful chartreuse version.
Mousseline in totally Greek goddess vibe and shows the original front wrap placement
I’ve just completed a marathon photoshoot today: this was Blue, next time will be Green, specifically the Burda peasant blouse showing my special adaptations and additions. Then, we’ll do the monochrome – black and white. So there are at least another three blog posts this summer.
So stay tuned by friends – much more to come…..
As always, truly grateful thanks for all encouragement, enthusiasm and engagement with my sewing and sewing exploits on this blog.
July 10, 2017 at 5:53 pm
WoW great dress and great style for you !!
July 14, 2017 at 8:36 am
Thanks Kathy.
July 10, 2017 at 6:10 pm
This dress looks so lovely on you. The color, the design, the execution…everything. Your skills are impressive!
July 14, 2017 at 8:36 am
Thank you very much Fran. I think I might make another….
July 10, 2017 at 6:11 pm
I love this too. Its such a nice, interesting cut. It has a bit VW about it, doesn’t it?
I also love the look of the slip on you. I thought you were Princess Diana. Your hair looks amazing. I hope one day you will make a body con dress that finishes at the knee as you have such great legs.
July 10, 2017 at 7:54 pm
What more can I say? Total success. Great colour, which really suits you, and greatly accessorised (love how the shoes go with). I’m glad it took only 12 tacks.
July 14, 2017 at 8:38 am
Thanks Marijana. So much prep involved before the sewing begins with this one
July 14, 2017 at 8:37 am
You’re right Kate, just a a touch of VW, so maybe next one will be in a tartan! Thank you
July 10, 2017 at 6:17 pm
This is gorgeous! Great colour, wonderful adaptations.
July 14, 2017 at 8:38 am
Thanks Lorrie.
July 10, 2017 at 6:17 pm
What a knockout! This dress is fab on u. Great color, great fit.
July 14, 2017 at 8:40 am
Thanks Claire.
July 10, 2017 at 6:27 pm
I love your version and the colour is wonderful on you. Can’t wait to see what else you are sewing this summer
July 14, 2017 at 8:40 am
Lots to show and tell coming soon Chris. Thank you
July 10, 2017 at 7:23 pm
Just this morning I told a friend about the 2 DK patterns (V1341 and V1417) I did NOT buy on Saturday and was supposed to go back for today. I stood with them in my hands at an OOP bin, and thought “No! You are NOT! You have too many patterns you are never going to use” And then later I realised how short-sighted that was… I am going back again tomorrow!
This dress is gorgeous on you. Hope you had a great night out on your friend’s birthday!
July 14, 2017 at 8:41 am
Hope you got those patterns Klarisabet – I might be borrowoing them. Thank you
July 10, 2017 at 8:48 pm
Your version of the dress looks much more wearable than the designer original (too much loose fitting, looks like one has to check the fit of the shoulders and slit permanently). And your colour choice is lovely! I hope those itching stitches will be soon a thing of the past.
July 14, 2017 at 8:42 am
Thanks Anke. The envelope photo does make the dress look very loose but because we can sew, it doesn’t have to be.
July 10, 2017 at 8:54 pm
Hi Ruth
Honestly, your dress looks far nicer than the one the model is wearing. Great colour on you, by the way.
Hope the discomfort from the midges subside quickly.
July 14, 2017 at 8:43 am
Hi Marysia. Thank you. I have some of both fabrics left over, so probably more items in this colour to come.
July 10, 2017 at 10:46 pm
Va voom! The news makes me sad that I didn’t buy this pattern or enough other DKNY patterns! Gah. It’s smashing on you. Real life clothing, but with a cool twist. Exactly what I seek in a pattern.
Please please don’t stop blogging.
July 14, 2017 at 8:44 am
Thanks Sankati. I’m still here, still sewing…..It’s always nice when we find such a pattern.
July 10, 2017 at 10:49 pm
Gorgeous! What a star Donna Karen is and what a great interpretation you’ve made of this pattern in fabric and colour choice and your changes to suit you. You look fabulous!
July 14, 2017 at 8:45 am
Thank you very much Elle. Lost a bit of weight recently so I’m a wee bit more confident with such dress styles.
July 10, 2017 at 10:51 pm
I didn’t like this pattern at all.
Until I saw yours. You look stunning in it. And like everyone else I regret not buying it. Too bad so sad 8-).
July 14, 2017 at 8:46 am
I didn’t like it either Elle but bought it ‘just in case’ and would you believe it? Just in Case happened!
Thank you.
July 10, 2017 at 10:53 pm
WOW! This is just so gorgeous! I love this on you! It is just so lovely! And in all honesty, your changes have made this so us average chicks–aka, not rail thin models, can wear this and not look like we are trying WAY TOO HARD! If this pattern is still available at my local JoAnns, I am snatching it up!
LOVE THIS–oh wait, did I already say that?
July 14, 2017 at 8:47 am
Thanks Sue – go get that pattern!
July 11, 2017 at 1:56 am
Now if you could just trace it off and copy to pdf… Lovely frock and that colour is soo good on you. x
July 14, 2017 at 8:48 am
Thank you Sewn. I think tracing this pattern would be more difficult than sewing it!
July 30, 2017 at 11:17 pm
Wouldn’t object to that either BTW!
July 11, 2017 at 3:53 am
Wow, what a glorious dress! The vibrant color, and the security of the lining to make sure there are no serious shifts, make it a real winner! Congratulations!!
July 14, 2017 at 8:49 am
The slip is a genius idea and I’m thinking that all wrap dresses need one.
Thanks Judy.
July 11, 2017 at 6:57 am
Gorgeous! The colour is great on you. I was so sad when Vogue had to stop doing the Donna Karen patterns as they are some of the best.
July 14, 2017 at 8:49 am
I miss them too Catherine. Thank you.
July 11, 2017 at 8:02 am
Absolutely lovely! Donna Karan is certainly a class act.
July 14, 2017 at 8:52 am
I actually have a few of the Vogue DK Sheree that I haven’t sewn yet, maybe I could do a DKNY sewing fest….
Thanks
July 11, 2017 at 8:03 am
Fabulous dress! Love the colour on you.
July 14, 2017 at 8:52 am
Thank you Sue. Blue’s good.
July 11, 2017 at 8:05 am
This is gorgeous! You look amazing in that colour and the style is fabulous.
July 14, 2017 at 8:52 am
Thanks Sue.
July 11, 2017 at 9:15 am
I love this, and now want the pattern. Beautiful colour!
July 14, 2017 at 8:53 am
Hunt the pattern down Jay and make yourself a designer dress.
Thanks
July 11, 2017 at 2:00 pm
Lovely dress … WELL DONE!!! FIESTA!!! 🙂
July 14, 2017 at 8:53 am
Thank you Monica.
July 11, 2017 at 2:15 pm
It looks wonderful on you. You look like you should be in a fashion show.
July 14, 2017 at 8:54 am
Oh you’re sweet Susan , thank you very much.
July 11, 2017 at 4:12 pm
What a gorgeous dress! Lovely color. And kudos for taking on all those pattern pieces – I have a Donna Karan pattern that I occasionally eye, but then decide I don’t have enough space to cut it out! ( : You have inspired me, though, so maybe I’ll take the leap.
July 14, 2017 at 8:56 am
Hands and knees on the floor Ellie or lay out fabric and pattern on the lawn on a sunny windless day – sometimes we have to suffer to succeed! LOL!
Thanks very much
July 11, 2017 at 9:37 pm
Wowsers!! This is absolutely gorgeous, and I love the toogle and loop idea. Also, it would have been rude not to buy the DK bag because it’s fabulous!
July 14, 2017 at 8:56 am
Thanks Lynne. DKNY shoes next???
July 12, 2017 at 9:33 am
You look wonderful in the dress and the colour. Burn the shirtdress!
July 14, 2017 at 8:57 am
The shirtdress is in the Not be Worn Again pile ready for shortening Viliene. I’m glad you agree with me on that.
Thanks
July 12, 2017 at 4:50 pm
This is a lovely style and the blue is perfect on you! Nice handiwork with the pattern too! Lovely!
July 14, 2017 at 8:57 am
Thank you Linda.
July 13, 2017 at 12:56 am
What an amazingly wonderful color on you……I would never have thought that the pattern would turn out like this, your eye for style is phenomenal. Too bad about the bug bites….we bought some dab on anti itch thing years ago in Mexico that has finally sadly run out of juice, it was the best thing ever for bug bites!
ceci
July 14, 2017 at 8:59 am
Hi Ceci, my lotion is one I bought in Germany 9 nine years ago! I’m not even sure it’s still effective. It’s bad news when we run out of of favourite things isn’t it?
Thank you
July 13, 2017 at 2:36 am
You look stunning!
July 14, 2017 at 8:59 am
Wow, thanks Irene.
July 14, 2017 at 2:43 am
I think the pattern photo on this does not do it justice. Must be the fabric they chose. The lines on the drawing show the lovely details, and I love what you did to make it yours. Such a beautiful dress. And that is a beautiful blue for you!
July 14, 2017 at 9:01 am
Thank you Karla. Sometimes it’s better just to look at the line drawings rather than the photo. The models are all 6 ft tall and skinny.
July 14, 2017 at 7:35 am
I wouldn’t have thought that pattern is as wearable as yours is, if that makes sense. I love it, actually I think the slip looks pretty great too. That colour is fabulous on you. Total success. Have a great summer! X
July 14, 2017 at 9:02 am
Thanks Mags. Hope all is well with you. Enjoy your summer break.
July 14, 2017 at 7:18 pm
Magnificent dress Ruth, and well done on having the foresight to buy the DK patterns when they were available.
Have you tried Avon Skin So Soft to repel the midges? A diver I met who was in the forces informed me that they buy it in bulk to keep the Scottish midges away.
October 16, 2017 at 5:36 pm
Thanks Kim, I don’t think midges are aware of nation or political borders but thanks for the into as I’m heading to the Scottish Highlands next summer and will need defence.
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October 16, 2017 at 4:32 am
I keep coming back to this pattern in my collection… do you think it would work in a silk – non-stretch?
October 16, 2017 at 5:34 pm
I’d think not Lizzy. You need a bit of stretch around the waist and hips for perfect fitting and being able to sit down in…..LOL
Keep your silk for a more suitable design. Thank you
October 16, 2017 at 8:03 pm
Thanks for that!