I know it might take a wee bit of effort working out seam allowances and perfect fitting; there’s the figuring out how to put in an invisible zip and then actually making it invisible; then there’s any extras that you might have added or redacted from the pattern, but this Saturn dress has taken me to, at the very least, Mars and then back again……
The dress itself took about as much time as a dress takes to make – I don’t know, like about 3 or 4 hours? The lining has taken A WEEK!
I undertook a minor engineering project with the lining. I managed to gather some power mesh lining, mega stretchy, in order to construct something akin to shape wear inside the dress.
With a bit of draping and pulling and pushing, pining and marking the ‘lining’ was made on Doris. I attached the dress facings along the neckline and two strips down centre back for extra security for the zip.
The first zip was an invisible one – truly invisible, down centre back with a little gap at the neck edge because the zip was too short. But it looked fine and the high neck edge was closed with hook and eye.
Now the thing is….I could get the unlined dress on. I could squirm my way into the lining, but when I put the two together – it took two men and a wee lad to get the zip up and to be honest, we never got it up!
Back to the drawing board.
The power mesh lining was literally cut out and replaced with a conventional poly satin – leopard print skirt and sleeves with coordinating bodice. For some reason I decided to completely hand sew the lining in – I’ve no idea either……
There’s a waist stay – bit of elastic fastened with hooks and eyes and holds the dress in place and holds the waist in.
Long story short – the centre back zip was ripped out and the seam sewed closed; the left hand side seam was ripped out and a new conventional zip was put in, which means I can at least reach it and do not need the assistance of friends and neighbours to get in and out of the dress.
The skirt is straight so for ease of walking and sitting and everyday stuff like that, I added a split which can be closed with buttons, this idea was lifted directly from the original Galaxy design.
This is not an exact replica of either the original Galaxy dress or even my Saturn pattern: skirt was shortened by about 3″ and the excess was made into a belt; all seams were ‘fitted’ to me so the seam allowances vary .
Neither do I have the ‘Galaxy’ silhouette – but then again, I don’t have a Galaxy figure either – must check out neck to knee foundation garments. But I do have a very wearable day dress and it’s such a lovely colour that it might join the rag-tag bunch of other stuff that is slowly forming a badly going SWAP.
If you’ve got a few minutes to spare then watch this little video about a Roland Mouret Titanium Dress. You will notice that this dress has a hefty metal zip and the lining has 18% elastane. This was the purpose of my first lining. Anyone else think the outside finishing is slightly lacking and what’s with the serged edges?