corecouture

Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

Navy Daisies

28 Comments

I’ve used so much solid navy in my A/W ’15 wardrobe that it needed a bit of a lift. There’s a small hint with the small neck scarf……..

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clothhouse-swatch-0347183001441879350849210776The fabric is from The Cloth House, London and was purchased in real life when I there a few weeks ago: it’s a Japanese hammered polyester with a genuinely silky drape and hand – just lovely. Presses well, slight fraying but not excessive and wrinkle free. Black background with navy, cream, lilac and amethyst flowers, all outlined in matt gold. This can be worn with black, grey, navy, cream and purple.

 

spiral_blouse_patt_image__76239_zoom_grandeThe pattern is an old favourite but I’ve not sewn for quite a while – The Centre for Pattern Design Spiral Blouse. There’s just one piece.

 

I’ve previously made this with and without centre back seam; with a front button opening and a sewn closed front; lengthened, shortened; long sleeves and 3/4 length. The original pattern comes with a simple round neckline but you can add any shape of collar you like – and I have – pointed, mandarin, funnel, ties, scarf and scooped out for a lower neckline.

The version presented today has been lengthened 3″ with a centre back seam, enlarged all round by simply cutting 1/4″ bigger than the pattern; scarf-style collar (so as to use all available fabric), and a “design feature” of pointed sleeves. I’ll explain later.

Worn today with cotton navy twill Jeanius jeans, rolled up for styling but in reality they fall slightly over the foot to wear with boots and other shoes. I’ve lost count of how many pairs of jeans I’ve made using this Craftsy class and drafted pattern but certainly way more than I could afford or bothered to buy.

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The scarf ties can be worn in lots of different ways too, depending on mood and outer-layer jacket: pussy bow, wrapped around and tied at back, casual and loose.

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This little blouse also goes with existing wardrobe staples – the cream and the navy Chanel-style jackets – respectively Vogue  8804 & 8259 (OOP) with modifications:

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The pointed sleeves are due a cutting error while trying to lengthen them but failed miserably. The sleeves are sewn with a spiral seam and I just kept sewing until I got to the end. However, I kind of like the origami-nature of the point and the slit hem – like an exaggerated elbow dart – so it stayed. It also fits with the natural bend in my arm, so as long as I stand with my arm bent, it looks fine!

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The blouse is cut on the bias and drapes/folds/puddles/ drops quite attractively at the back to create an uneven hemline.

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I sewed all French seams within and hand rolled all outside hems using this super quick, absolutely magic and easy method.

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I think I need to alter my Jeanius pattern a little bit to eliminate those back thigh wrinkles using this method – The paper pattern has been used so much that I may need to make a new one! At the same time, these jeans have been worn for two days in a row, so a bit of stretch and wrinkling is to be expected. I just keep thinking…better than RTW!

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And most importantly and significantly …. no-one in the whole wide world has a blouse like his or jeans like these. So pointed elbows and wrinkly thighs – all part of the “look”. You couldn’t do it if you tried!

PS: the neckscarf is made from all the savable leftovers, sewn together into a length long enough to go round my neck and tied in any way that I can. No pattern, no rules, no respect for grainline or pattern – just do it!

 

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28 thoughts on “Navy Daisies

  1. I am so enjoying following along as you sew your wardrobe! I think this blouse looks great and I love the “leftovers” scarf. So inspiring.

  2. I have always been intrigued by that spiral blouse pattern Ruth. It appears to be very versatile. And I love the Japanese fabric. As you say now you have lots of great navy basics you need a few patterned and colourful tops to mix in. Super!

  3. Thanks for this post, the pattern for the blouse sounds really interesting. I had assumed that your pointed sleeves were part of the look as designed – I like them!

  4. You’re wardrobe looks so very co-ordinated, you’ve done a great job. Love that japanese fabric too. Have just got the M & M book as a gift, inspired by your posts, and looking forward to getting started on one of their patterns, probably the trousers since I wear them a lot.

  5. Great little blouse, I love you in colors 🙂 And the rolled hem tut is fantastic, thks for sharing.

  6. Lovely! The pointy sleeves look intentional, and very nice. Pretty blouse, intriguing pattern – such versatility!

  7. Nice! I like the addition of a touch of colour and pattern. The sleeves look intentional. What an intriguing sounding pattern.

  8. This blouse has turned out great. The colours are perfect for integrating with your wardrobe. Thanks for sharing the rolled hem tute. It looks genius and I can’t wait to try it.

  9. I love it “just do it”. The outfits are definitely unique and better than ready to wear so – just do it! What can you loose and there is lots to be gained…. a lovely, unique outfit! Nice work!

  10. I love that pattern and yours looks great!

  11. A great addition to your navy basics. Isn’t the Jeanius course pattern brilliant. I think it may be time to make more….

  12. What a beautiful fabric, both the graphics and the colours (I must check out the texture too IRL if they have any left)! The style of blouse if very in right now. Top effort Ruth.

  13. I love your wardrobe posts and how you add more and more coordinating pics. You’re an inspiration! I have a coordinated wardrobe too, but some pieces are already worn out whilst the others are still in the stash…

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