Item 1 for SWAP ’15 is complete: a pair of cotton jersey trousers with Alabama Chanin style panels.
Not the most obvious choice for a hand sewn garment I’ll grant you, but with the serged crotch seam they are quite robust and durable. I also serged 2″ elastic to the waistband, folded to the inside and held in place with slip stitching to the seams and darts. Other details can be found here. Pattern is Vogue 8837 Katherine Tilton.
I didn’t make these trousers fitted like a pair of leggings or tailored like a proper pair but left them a little loose as the cotton jersey does not have the stretch of lycra, nor the recoverability of a poly-blend. So I’ll admit they are rather less than flattering. I am also a little concerned that over time they will become saggy and baggy at knees and bum – but we’ll just have to wait to see if this is the case. I will report back in a month or two with the results. See Marcy Tilton’s blog for more advice and tips on suitable fabrics for these trousers.
Great length – cutting just shy of the ankle with turn-ups is a good way to show off shoes .
They are really comfy to wear – PJs for daytime. No pockets are included in the pattern but I reckon you could easily add a set in the side panels.
The AC panels are made up of two pieces (as per pattern). A fairly simple leaf stencil that hardly took no time to sew. Once these were AC’d, I just made up the trousers as usual. The back darts are hand sewn, as are the side seams and the turn-ups. I’d say the pattern ran large but that could be down to my choice of not very stretchy fabric and 5/8″ seam allowances that were guessed at rather than meticulously measured.
I SHALL NOT be wearing these IRL without a long jacket/cardigan that comes down to at least mid-thigh. The backside is just too ugly……
It took a lot of courage to include the above image – not a nice sight!
Luckily I have a long cardigan included in my SWAP, so these trousers will have to wait until that is sewn before they see the light of day out in public.
I spent Saturday making new stencils that may or may not be used for this set of AC.
Just let me warn you of the perils of AC sewing – sliced left thumb!
I’m also losing my fingerprint on the middle finger of my right hand due to all the needle pushing and pulling. There’s a little callous developing there. The left thumb knuckle has a multitude of puncture wounds as it always seems to be in the way of the outcoming needle.
In general, my hands are dry. Mrs Mole explained that this is because working with the cotton jersey and all that thread loving sucks the natural oils from the skin.
So always moisturise before and after sewing.
Pay attention when working with a bare blade
Use a thimble
Learn to hand sew without personal injury.
SWAP sewing averages about 10 days per garment. As I have most items already cut out I can spend the time sewing so I might just be able to make another 10 by April but I have other plans afoot too……until next time….
January 11, 2015 at 10:56 am
Your speed & ability to create these Alabama Chanin inspired garments is amazing. I was looking at the prices of Alabama Chanin garments online… and had to pick my jaw off the floor!
January 13, 2015 at 8:31 am
Staggering prices aren’t they? This might be the only time when we actually do save money by making our own!
January 11, 2015 at 12:18 pm
You did a great job ! I have had the same thing with A pair of pants—- finally got The cut right for the back . Have away the first ones. Enjoy them with your long Sweater since they are really Beautiful!
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January 13, 2015 at 8:33 am
Hi Carolyn, my usual fitted trousers are fine but as these are cotton jersey I expected a bit of bagginess and I’m not too bothered really. It was more a of a test of an idea rather than aiming for perfection. Thank you.
January 11, 2015 at 1:21 pm
Beautiful colour on you Ruth, and learning from you about new techniques such as AC is great.
Oh dear about the cuts though………I have to admit I am always shouting for someone to quickly bring me a plaster when using my sharp knives in the kitchen. DH gets very nervous when I get my rotary cutter out in the sewing room!!!!!!!
May I wish you a rather belated Happy New Year, and again, thanks for a terrific blog.
January 13, 2015 at 8:34 am
Thanks Marysia. I really should be more careful with sharp instruments. I keep plasters in my sewing room now!
January 11, 2015 at 2:05 pm
LOve these colors on you Ruth. I am enjoying reading about your AC addiction 🙂
January 13, 2015 at 8:36 am
Thanks Mary, I’ll have another 10 garments (all being well) in shades of blue so it’s a good job I suit it!
January 11, 2015 at 3:08 pm
Looking good!
January 13, 2015 at 8:36 am
Thanks Kim.
January 11, 2015 at 3:59 pm
May I say something personal? There is nothing wrong with your back view, whatsoever. You have a great shape – nothing to worry about at all. You really don’t need to wrap it up in a long cardigan or shroud it in a jacket.
I am getting so excited about this collection, and can’t wait to see it develop. Great work.
January 13, 2015 at 8:37 am
Too kind Kate – but you know we all have our little hang-ups with our bodies and this has been mine since adolescence. I can’t give it up now!
January 11, 2015 at 7:36 pm
I second Kate! I was going to say that it looks like a very nice back view. I think we all see ourselves differently than we actually are.
Your sewing is very, very impressive, and so inspiring for a newcomer like me.
January 13, 2015 at 8:38 am
Thank you Stephanie. We were all newcomers once – keep sewing
January 11, 2015 at 11:55 pm
What a great incorporation of this technique. The pants are very smart!
January 13, 2015 at 8:39 am
Hi Pamela, I just wanted to see if it would work and this pattern was perfect as it has the side panels. thanks.
January 12, 2015 at 3:29 am
Those pants look fabulous! And your thumb is exactly why I am so afraid of xacto blades . . . yikes! I hear you on the punctured fingertips; so much hand sewing takes a toll. I have yet to figure out a comfortable way to use a thimble, but I keep hoping one day I will wake up with thimble skills.
January 13, 2015 at 8:41 am
I’m actually a bit proud of my cuts and nicks – proof of handsewing! I don’t use a thimble either, I find them too clumsy. Mrs Mole suggested a patch of moleskin instead.
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