Do me a favour? Try on one of your RTW or hand sewn jackets and look very carefully at the bit between the lapel and the armhole; just above the breast and below the shoulder. Stand naturally in front of a mirror; button the jacket, unbutton the jacket; put your hand the the pockets, sling a shoulder bag on – just do whatever you normally do.
Does it wrinkle? Does it crease?
Mine do – both in RTW and hand made. And for the life of me I cannot think of a reason or a solution! Well, actually, I think I’m a bit round shouldered and this is creating a hollow at the front and hence the wrinkling. But even on Doris the wrinkling still exists, and she’s perfect!
There seems to be too much fabric – I can pinch the excess.
So I set to try and remove the wrinkles. I inserted the sleeves a million times, each time moving the armscye more and more forward, thereby removing the excess on the fronts until my sleeves practically emerged from the princess seam and making me look more round shouldered that I actually am! I ripped out the entire insides and took in a bigger seam allowance on the princess seam and all this did was pull the armscye forward.
I narrowed the shoulders but then the sleeves didn’t hang properly. BTW, want to see perfectly hung sleeves?
Slightly forward to mirror the natural shape of the arm and according to my tailoring books – this is what a sleeve should look like.
I thought the armhole was possibly too small but I didn’t want to cut into the jacket in case that didn’t fix the problem.
I tried a couture shrinking technique – tacked in some pleats and steam pressed until the fronts almost turned to felt!
All I achieved with this was to overwork the fabric which will now never recover from its trauma.
In the end I re-sewed everything exactly as it was back in place and left well enough alone. I did make some extra padded floating breast shields and sewed these in but I still have wrinkles and they’re doing my head in.
I’ve tried to disguise one side with a rose which I’m hoping will fray into a delicious melange of tweedy bits.
When the jacket is buttoned and I stand with shoulders back and head erect, the wrinkles disappear. But I have to hold my breath and suck my tummy in and gradually turn blue – so it’s not really a practicable way to solve the problem.
Even Cate Blanchett in Armani has wrinkles. I have an Armani Jacket and yes, there are wrinkles there too but not as much as in my own hand made ones. There are loads of images of women’s jackets without wrinkles but I worked in the print industry for years and I know how much retouching is done before a picture is deemed acceptable to be included in an advert. Is it a feminine issue with tailored jackets? Are we presented with a retouched, perfect image that is, in reality, unobtainable?