If you read regularly then’ll you’ll be fully aware of my joy and deep satisfaction with Vogue patterns – cut a 14, minor tweaks as I sew and I have a garment that fits. You might also know that I love to do a bit of tailoring – all that hand sewing and pad stitching, steaming and shrinking and stretching fabric, taping the edges and inserting canvas interfacing – it gives me great happiness to see a flat piece of fabric be moulded and shaped and quite literally transformed into something.
Now, combine all the above with my new found altruism in sewing for others and we arrive at the man’s jacket! DH has a bit of an obsession with jackets – he has many and has been asking me to make him one for ages now. I think he likes the idea that it is a bespoke item – not exactly Saville Row but then I’m cheaper.
Vogue 8890 : Men’s semi-fitted jacket with two piece sleeves, double back vent, pockets and collar.
I dutifully took DH’s measurements and made a proper muslin and couldn’t believe my luck when the cotton mock-up fitted! No alterations needed. Wait, am I Vogue’s perfect 14 and DH Vogue’s perfect 46? This can’t be true……and no he looks nothing like the model!
Spurred on by the notion of a cut, sew and wear project, I soon got down to business. We had bought a cheap suiting fabric while in England in the summer – I mean mega cheap – £4 p/m, a grand total of £16 was spent and after cutting out the jacket there’s enough left over for me to get a matching skirt! Yes, it’s only poly but a fairly good test fabric for the first jacket. Did I say first? Like there’ll be a second. DH has had his eye on some Ralph Lauren cashmere suiting at £60 p/m and even YSL £180 p/m – he’s paying!
So, for the last few weeks I’ve been doing the tailoring thing, which is universally slow and uneventful for a blog post.
I haven’t really followed the pattern’s instructions but have used a combination of my own previous experience and knowledge and a wonderful tailoring book sent to me by Lucia – Vintage Couture Tailoring. It has been invaluable on this and many other projects, so many, many thanks Lucia. The book details the making of a lady’s jacket but techniques are the same. It’s not so much that the sewing is complicated or difficult but the order of construction is crucial. DH wanted patch pockets for a more casual look – so he got them. The front is sewn to the side and then the pocket is sewn by hand across the seam. The pockets are lined and a strip of interfacing inserted along the foldline for a bit of durability and hopefully to minimise sagging.
Doris is playing her role as a holding station for the jacket and I’ll have to be vigilant that DH’s jacket doesn’t end up with a 36″ C- cup bust!
This is as far as I’ve thus come: completed fronts. Next I’ll attach the back to the sides, making those vents as I go. Then the dreaded collar – more pad stitching, shaping and tackling my weakest point head on – symmetry! Then sleeves and shoulder pads. Followed by lining, button holes and buttons and then searching for, locating and removing every last one of those tailor tacks and basting threads!
I’m sort of dreading the first try on – what if he doesn’t like it, what if the muslin was a fluke and the real thing doesn’t fit, what if.. what if…?
Tune in next time for more staggeringly exciting photos.