corecouture

Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

Not mine: V8890

36 Comments

If you read regularly then’ll you’ll be fully aware of my joy and deep satisfaction with Vogue patterns – cut a 14, minor tweaks as I sew and I have a garment that fits. You might also know that I love to do a bit of tailoring – all that hand sewing and pad stitching, steaming and shrinking and stretching fabric, taping the edges and inserting canvas interfacing – it gives me great happiness to see a flat piece of fabric be moulded and shaped and quite literally transformed into something.

Now, combine all the above with my new found altruism in sewing for others and we arrive at the man’s jacket! DH has a bit of an obsession with jackets – he has many and has been asking me to make him one for ages now. I think he likes the idea that it is a bespoke item – not exactly Saville Row but then I’m cheaper.

Vogue 8890 : Men’s semi-fitted jacket with two piece sleeves, double back vent, pockets and collar.

V8890

V8890

I dutifully took DH’s measurements and made a proper muslin and couldn’t believe my luck when the cotton mock-up fitted! No alterations needed. Wait, am I Vogue’s perfect 14 and DH Vogue’s perfect 46? This can’t be true……and no he looks nothing like the model!

Spurred on by the notion of a cut, sew and wear project, I soon got down to business. We had bought a cheap suiting fabric while in England in the summer – I mean mega cheap – £4 p/m, a grand total of £16 was spent and after cutting out the jacket there’s enough left over for me to get a matching skirt! Yes, it’s only poly but a fairly good test fabric for the first jacket. Did I say first? Like there’ll be a second. DH has had his eye on some Ralph Lauren cashmere suiting at £60 p/m and even YSL £180 p/m – he’s paying!

So, for the last few weeks I’ve been doing the tailoring thing, which is universally slow and uneventful for a blog post.

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Back: canvas interfacing along the hem. The slanted corners will be folded up to make mitred corners at the back vents

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Front: canvas interfacing with an added breast shield pad stitched to the canvas and taped and the pad stitched and taped lapel

51L6N7yrI3L._SX385_I haven’t really followed the pattern’s instructions but have used a combination of my own previous experience and knowledge and a wonderful tailoring book sent to me by Lucia – Vintage Couture Tailoring. It has been invaluable on this and many other projects, so many, many thanks Lucia. The book details the making of a lady’s jacket but techniques are the same. It’s not so much that the sewing is complicated or difficult but the order of construction is crucial. DH wanted patch pockets for a more casual look – so he got them. The front is sewn to the side and then the pocket is sewn by hand across the seam. The pockets are lined and a strip of interfacing inserted along the foldline for a bit of durability and hopefully to minimise sagging.

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Patch pocket fell stitched in place.

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Pad stitched lapel or rever from the right side; pressed and tacked to hold its shape during the rest of the jacket’s construction

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Inside left front: front facing with lining and double welt inside breast pocket. I deliberately sewed wonky top stitching to give the jacket the ‘hand-made’ look – LOL

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Breast patch pocket and completed lapels

Doris is playing her role as a holding station for the jacket and I’ll have to be vigilant that DH’s jacket doesn’t end up with  a 36″ C- cup bust!

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This is as far as I’ve thus come: completed fronts. Next I’ll attach the back to the sides, making those vents as I go. Then the dreaded collar – more pad stitching, shaping and tackling my weakest point head on – symmetry! Then sleeves and shoulder pads. Followed by lining, button holes and buttons and then searching for, locating and removing every last one of those tailor tacks and basting threads!

I’m sort of dreading the first try on – what if he doesn’t like it, what if the muslin was a fluke and the real thing doesn’t fit, what if.. what if…?

Tune in next time for more staggeringly exciting photos.

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36 thoughts on “Not mine: V8890

  1. Its looking really good, can’t wait to see the finished jacket!

  2. It’s a great work. You did it very accurate. I’m very curious of the finished jacket.

  3. I am very impressed! Please don’t let The Management know – he is still very happy with the occasional shirt and PJs 🙂
    I must get a copy of that book. It looks like a must have.

    • It’s a really good book – lots of photos to show the process and would recommend it if you are serious about tailoring – men’s or women’s. I actually would like DH to want PJs – not too much pad stitching involved!!!!

  4. This looks too good for him not to like it. I have a feeling there will be more of these jackets in your future 🙂

  5. Oh, very bold of you to go for a men’s jacket! Absolutely not an easy project, but looking great so far! Did you use three layers of interface for this jacket (common for men’s jackets) or stayed with the two layers (common for woman’s jackets)? Looking forward to the end result!

    • Hi Renee. I used a single layer of canvas with the breast guard pad stitched onto it only. Guess I;m making a women’s interior on a men’s jacket. I’m loath to use fusible as I only ever get bubbles. This version will hopefully be a wearable muslin so I don’t want to spent too much effort, or expense, in making it – I’m keeping the reserve energy and techniques for the $200 cashmere!!!!

  6. Call me crazy, I love tailoring jackets since they include so many techniques we rarely use in normal every day clothes. I hope you have some of your own labels to put inside when it is finished. It looks mighty good so far!!!!

    • You’re crazy!
      But you’ve managed to isolate the reason why I like tailoring too – those singular moments when we use a rare technique. Believe me, this jacket will have labels on added to that, it will have a verbal label too as I will NEVER let him forget that I made it…….

  7. What a massive endeavor! And I have been deliberating making a tee shirt for my Walter! I cannot imagine taking on a proper jacket. I shall await with enthusiasm!

  8. wow I am not letting Mike see this

  9. Very impressive. I’m not telling my husband about this. I think your husband will love it.

  10. Very good, well built, if he doesn’t like it, I’ll take it!

  11. I’m eagerly anticipating your final photos! I know you will have High End results!! Maybe your work will inspire me to try it for my DH. Maybe.

  12. I’m sure he’ll be touched by your dedication and talent. Or else…..

    Fingers crossed for a Ralph Lauren’s version, one day!

    • He’s a very demanding client and this just might be his one and only order! Mind you, he has to be nice to me or else there’s no dinner made and maybe some other sanctions might be imposed…….know what I mean??

  13. I haven’t even done this for myself, let alone someone else. You are a saint!

  14. This looks like a huge project to take on. I hope your husband fully appreciates your effort. Looks terrific so far…looking forward to seeing the completed jacket.

  15. Impressive! And a lot of very detailed work. i made my Dh a jacket way back in the 70’s, he loved it! As I am sure yours will love his. Gorgeous fabric.

  16. I am so impressed. I have “semi-tailored” jackets for myself (including tweed for a recent day at Blenheim Horse Trials) but your jacket for your DH is serious stuff. And yes it is a great book. I plan to increase the tailoring and decrease the dressmaking in my jackets, gradually learning new techniques from the Vintage Tailoring book, reducing my EC fabric mountain/stash by infinitesimal amounts as I go. Well done – and please keep posting. I am feeling inspired to start the next jacket already. Anne

  17. Looks great so far, the result must look faboulus too. Must have a copy of that book since this year our sewing class is all about tailoring jackets! Thanks for the inspiration!!

  18. Pingback: Done – V8890 | corecouture

  19. Pingback: Another piece of the vogue 8890 jacket construction | dorcas936gazelle

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