l Check Those Collars and Lapels
The really irksome thing about checks is that they have a tendency to highlight wiggly seams, badly pressed edges and poor cutting out. One of the principle areas of irksomeness is around the neck – the lapels and collar; the other major location is the sleeves.
Of course the check/plaid can be used for effect too but the tailoring perfectionist aims for perfect matching – what else?
Can you spot what’s wrong with this matching?
This is the lapel cut on the straight of grain – see how the orange stripe is two lines away from the edge at the top and tapers out towards the break point? This should be avoided (see above). It means making a new facing pattern so that the edge of the lapel is on the straight of grain and therefore following the vertical lines of the fabric. Because the lapel is at an angle to the front of the jacket it is usually cut on a slight bias so we have to tilt the pattern piece slightly.
Now, if I can figure it out and do it, wouldn’t you think that the RTW market could do the same?
Perfection, even if the stripes are a little bold!
DH’s R Lauren again – perfection!
This is my effort – what I can’t figure out is this…
I hope you also noticed the sleeve matching with the horizontal stripes in all the examples – that’s for another day. This is where I’m at at the moment – not so nice.