1. Fold the right front of the jeans under the left but leave the fly open.
2. Match the free edge of the zip with the centre front.
3. Turn the zip and shield over and tack (baste) the basted edge to the right hand edge of the fly only. Aim to match the top of the shield with the top edge of the jeans and the bottom with the bottom of the fly.
This is to prevent the metal zip teeth cutting into your tummy when wearing, so apart from comfort, it also adds colour and a professional finish.
4. Sew this basted edge by machine through the fly only – NOT the front of the jeans. Sew close to the zip teeth but watch you don’t hit the metal teeth or you’ll lose a needle! Jeans zips generally have wide tape so you may not need to change to a zipper foot, this means more grip when using your usual sewing foot.
5. Trim off the excess from the fly front and overlock or zig-zag to neater the edge and stop fraying.
6. Fold the zip right way out and pin through the fly, shield and zip tape.
Sew along this line of pins.
|Zip and shield folded back in place.|
7. Let the zip fall naturally to the left and pin as it lies against the left hand fly. Hold the shield out of the way. Sew this line but just the zip tape and the fly – NOT the front of the jeans.
8. Trim off any excess and overlock the edge if you want.
There – that’s better than a line drawing isn’t it?
Next time……. Construction Order
Hope this helps and thanks for reading. Ruth