A bit of construction detail of the gym slip – big bum alteration.
Ever since since I was a young teenager I have known that my bum sticks out. Recently I have discovered that my bum doesn’t stick out but that my back sways! I have sway back – considerably I may add.
However a different name does not reduce the fact that my bum sticks out. The gym slip dress otherwise known as Vogue 1121 is fitted and therefore highlights the body shape from all angles – why I choose this design is now a complete mystery to me, I blame it on the alter-ego – but while I was at it I made some pattern adjustments to minimise the bad look from the side and attempted a sway back alteration.
For those of you who are unaware of sway back let me explain – fabric tends to wrinkle and gather at the waist at the back; skirt waistbands have a horizontal pleat at the back; long T-shirts or jumpers ‘settle’ themselves on top of the bum creating more wrinkles. One then goes for big and baggy to cover the backside which in turn adds inches and inches to the perceived girth – better to face it, live with it and even celebrate it – J-Lo does!
I originally cut out as per the pattern but luckily had enough fabric left over to re-cut the two back panels for the sway back adjustment. I made a folded dart in the pattern piece just below the waist, about 1″ at the centre tapering to nothing. You can see above how much this one little dart distorts the pattern. Underneath it is the first cutting. The straight of grain has shifted considerably.
Such a dart then creates an uneven hemline, so I added the same amount at the bottom to straighten things out. Re-cut and sewed. Inserted the lapped zip (next post) and took in a little bit more at the waist in the side seams. I’ll use the old back pieces for the belt – so not too much wasted.
It’s not perfect – I could have taken a smidgeon more out but the back is relatively smooth in comparison first fitting. The dress now really contours my shape and I’m not sure I’m comfortable with that yet.