corecouture

Essential sewing keeping me clothed and sane

My Wardrobe

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This jacket is something I’m really proud of. It started out as Vogue 8333  (same as my pink version somewhere on this blog) but I made lots of alterations.
Did an Erica-B (lengthened by 3 inches)
Removed the pleats at the sides
Did not make inserted pockets
But……
Added patch pockets
Made the lapels and collar out of a contrasting fabric (mainly because I ran out of tweed)

This jacket is fully tailored with canvas backing and pad stitching and is fully lined with black satin.
the lining was hand sewn to the front facings and hem. Lining sleeves were hand sewn in. In this couture versions of the jacket the collar is also hand worked and attached with hand stitching. Two years later it’s still on!

We were driving down from Scotland last summer on a short holiday in England and were passing very close to Carlisle, where Linton Tweeds is situated. Linton Tweeds is the actual mill where Coco Chanel got her fabrics and nowadays, many couture design houses commission fabrics to be made for their collections. Three years after the collections have being shown, Linton sells any remaining fabric to the public. How could I resist? The fabric is a woven black with a white “painted” check and flecks of red, camel and brown. Utterly unique.

I bought two different tweeds that day and colour matching plain wool fabrics for skirts. Here is the jacket with the straight black boucle skirt. I can’t remember which pattern I used for skirt, but this too was a couture item. I underlined it, included slanted bound pockets at the front and, of course, it is fully lined. The seams are a mock Hong Kong finish.

Probably put the side invisible zipper in twice, but it looks fine and finished the waistband off with a slim bias cut trim rather than a waist band. Also added a button and ribbon for closure. (There’s a hook & eye on the inside)

 Back to the jacket…… here are some of the details.

Covered buttons on the sleeves, three rather than one and this time working buttonholes 
My label alongside Linton’s
Patch pockets – the white check of the jacket front
was matched with the pocket so that they are
practically invisible
when not in use and lined with the black satin

Bound button holes and covered buttons.
The two fronts hang perpendicular to the floor as per Claire Schaeffer’s directions

Contrasting lapel and collar in pure wool

I do make trousers (pants) too.  Here the jacket is paired with a pair of camel wool wide legged from Vogue V7881

Straight-legged pants (semi-fitted through hip)
have contour, front button yoke and mock-fly zipper.
A: couture construction.
I widened the leg considerably in my version
 

Thanks for reading.

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2 thoughts on “My Wardrobe

  1. Good work, Ruth. The color of the lapels and collar has made a good accent to the jacket. I like this tweed jacket .

  2. Thanks Jeyco, I'll be posting my Chanels soon.

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